The Paris Fashion Week looked up with wonder and creative satisfaction as it made way for new creative leads on the ramp with an amazing line of debuts, imparting inspiration and promises of better prospects for brands and the fashion industry in general.
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Sernin’s Debut with Demuelemeester
The slender, androgynous form that became a trademark of the Ann Demeulemeester label was carried over into French designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s inaugural collection.
Ann’s immaculate styling paired with long white cuffs sliding out from below the sleeves of a classy tailored black suit was all that was needed to take the world of fashion by storm. Fitted ankle-length woollen dresses with buttons exposed to the navel and sleek floor-length skirts, some paired with a simple feather bustier, emphasized the Demeulemeester cut’s long and slim lines. Accessorizing the chic outfits with soft shearling purses and thick riding boots with belts indicated that the house aims to sell both ready-to-wear and accessories.
The sinuous and translucent, such as a twisted halter neck gown in see-through silk or knitted wool mesh, replaced Sernin’s own vocabulary of chain mail vests and hot trousers. Though Sernin’s own design syntax and creative codes are yet not out there completely, his debut collection with Ann Demeulemeester was nothing short of a dignified culmination of Ann’s legacy in a very serene fashion.
Daniel Roseberry with Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry launched his first ready-to-wear collection for Schiaparelli, playing with the brand’s surrealist background with the same innovative attitude he established for its haute couture. This resulted in significant use of bijoux, hardware, accessories, and cone bras. Even without the intangible je ne sais quoi of couture, there was enough inventiveness and elan to give ready-to-wear its own hallmarks.
They comprised a keyhole cut-out jersey dress, turbans evocative of Ms. Elsa Schiaparelli’s style, and mismatched gold buttons adorning jackets, coats, and daywear pieces, including denim and velvet separates. With the absence of the substantial animal heads that generated a stir during the haute couture presentations in January, the house codes were all present.
The Schiap factor is maintained throughout Roseberry’s couture as it features duvet parkas, cool denim jackets, and black dresses, which have the quality of being effortless to carry while exuding sophistication and not giving much of a street fashion look.
Nina Ricci, By Harris Reed
British designer Harris Reed introduced bright refinement and high-octane femininity to Nina Ricci, the French fashion label famous for its L’Air du Temps fragrance. Mr. Reed, who is 26 years old and has swiftly risen to the pinnacle of fashion, is on a quest to bring amplified femininity to the runway. While his exuberance is contagious, some think his pouffe sleeves, bonbon wraps, and glittering gowns are too campy. Some have gone as far as to characterize it as ‘corny drag.’
Nina Ricci has a high turnover of creative directors, with an average stay of slightly over three years since 2002. As with any new collaboration between a designer and an established house, it is reasonable to anticipate the designer and the Maison to be in or out of sync only after a few seasons of fruitful collaborations.
Mr. Harris Reed has yet to mature into the role of a craftsman in Paris, where subtlety is valued above style, where sophistication has to be a cut above styling while appreciating the inclusiveness of his show casting.
The Paris Fashion Week 2024 has been a platform that encompasses all kinds of talent in the fashion industry, encouraging and nurturing it, while keeping intact the grandeur of the Week’s global appeal.
