Haute Couture Week in Paris that only lasted three days, and Thom Browne had shown his first show at the top level of French fashion. The American designer had given us more suits than we could imagine for his first Couture show, but they weren’t just ordinary suits, of course. It was obvious that Thom Browne was trying something new this season with a performance that took place in a theatre but had guests seated on the stage while cardboard cut-outs of people dressed in grey suits and sunglasses—hopefully from Thom Browne—took the place of each seat.
The pigeon hat was the star of the show
A pigeon hat was worn as an accessory with the first outfit to go down the runway (after the placement of baggage in the centre of the space by a few grey-suited models). Given that the company is known for its useful pigeon bags, a hat is a logical next step in creating the entire set. Shoes? The pigeon hat, as bizarre as it was, combined two extremes of the city of Paris, pigeons and haute couture, and became a veritable icon of the city.
Bell sleeves in the truest sense, but make them Thom Browne
As frequently as you would hear genuine church bells ringing, Thom Browne would show up with bell sleeves. Many of the pieces in the collection had bell sleeves, but they weren’t your typical bell sleeves since the volume was located in the middle, with the edges cuffing at the wrist, as opposed to being extended at the hem as they usually are. The fact that they were worn with bell hats and layered trompe l’oeil jacket dresses qualifies them as bell sleeves, and one bell ensemble even included little bells on the shoes.
It was the dachshund bags’ time to shine
In addition to the pigeon, a different animal also appeared in Thom Browne’s couture line, this time in the form of real doggie bags. Despite being the size of a dachshund in real life, these uniformly grey, canine-shaped bags were substantial with numerous straps, a chain, and a useful handle for easy movement. They were also adorned with comical faces and gilded bones dangling from their collars. Who’s laughing now? These bags are for those whose parents have never let them to own pets.
The limiting jacket for the beach
Despite being ornamented with the whimsical design of a seaside, a grey jacket with pin stripes took on an oddly constricted silhouette that was almost evocative of a strait jacket. The jacket’s structured wide shoulders and well-tailored fit severely limited the wearer’s arm movement. The sleeves were also tightly fastened. The set seemed quite difficult to walk in but it worked since it was paired with a pencil skirt that was pinstriped in the same melancholy grey pattern as the lighthouses and palm palms.
Browne’s homage to romance appeared in the wedding finale
Like most Couture presentations, Thom Browne’s finale had a wedding look, but Browne had to explore with it rather than simply send a standard gown down the catwalk. The bride arrived in a suit-turned-dress with open button detailing, a cutaway collar, and a tie, assisted by two helpers who were also wearing all-white outfits, including swimming caps. Thom Browne’s vision of romance is as unorthodox as it is beautiful, so it was only fitting that his bride matched by donning a perfect white lace dress and heels with equestrian inspiration.
